Text-Only Instructions by Nishi Sakpal and Lindy van der Merwe - copyright 2025
https://www.accessorigami.com
INTRODUCTION
This iconic model by Italian mathematician and origamist, Paolo Bascetta may be classified as a kusudama. It is a star-like creation with long, slender points that are arranged symmetrically.
You can find out more about Paolo Bascetta by visiting the following page, where you can also see the Bascetta Star as one of the models listed.
cfcorigami.com/user/637
While one may use 12 or 24 units to make smaller stars, this tutorial shows how to construct the larger 30-unit Bascetta Star.
The star made with 12 units has 8 points, the star made with 24 units has 16 points, while the 30-unit star has 20 points.
Even though it may seem a good idea to attempt the 12-unit star first, we suggest starting with the 30-unit assembly. This will give you enough practice and time to understand how this type of modular construction works.
You will then be able to use this knowledge and experience to construct the 12 and 24-unit stars and other similar assemblies more easily.
Note that at the end of the tutorial, you can find summaries for how to construct the 12, 24 and 30-unit variations of this star.
These summaries should be helpful once you understand how the assembly of this model works. They will be useful if you need a reminder of how the different models are constructed."
For this tutorial, you will need 30 squares. Origami sheets of 15 cm x 15 cm are recommended.
PHASE 1 - FOLDING YOUR UNITS
Step 1
Starting with the color side down, fold your square in half from point to point; unfold.
Repeat in the other direction and unfold again.
Step 2
Flip the square over and rotate it so one of its edges is facing you.
Step 3
Now, fold the square in half from bottom to top.
Crease and leave folded to form a two-layered rectangle.
Step 4
Fold the top left point, the top layer only, down so the left edge meets the bottom edge of the rectangle.
Crease and leave folded.
Step 5
Flip the rectangle over from left to right.
Step 6
Repeat Step 4 on this side of the rectangle as well. Crease and leave folded.
Step 7
Unfold the rectangle by bringing the top layer down toward you.
Result: You should now be left with a six-sided shape.
Rotate the shape so that one of its folded, long edges is nearest you.
You should have a similar, folded edge furthest away from you and two single-layered points, one on the left and one on the right.
Step 8
Concentrate on the long, folded edges for this step, ignoring the left and right pointy triangles for now.
You are trying to locate an existing diagonal crease line running from the bottom left to the top right point of the model.
The crease line starts at the bottom left, just where your folded edge begins, and ends at the top right corner, where the far folded edge ends.
To help you locate this diagonal line, you can gently lift the flap nearest you so it is standing up at a 90-degree angle.
Make sure you are able to pinpoint this line for the next steps.
Step 9
Next, fold the edge nearest you, both layers, at a slight angle so it meets the diagonal line from the previous step.
Result: A long, skinny triangle will now have formed nearest you.
This triangle will have two layers on its left side and only a single layer on the right, with a tiny arrow-like point that will extend beyond the right side of the model.
Step 10
Rotate the model so the opposite, folded edge is now nearest you and repeat Step 9 on this side.
Result: The model will now look symmetrical.
The outline will be a long, skinny four-sided shape, with two tiny points sticking out on the top left and bottom right of the figure.
Step 11
Flip the shape over from left to right and make sure it stays in landscape orientation, with the long, folded edges at the top and bottom.
Step 12
Notice that you will have two loose, single-layered flaps that seem to be lying on top of the surface of the model now.
We are going to fold up the bottom left corner of our shape now, using these triangles as our reference points.
So, first locate with one of your fingers, the place along the bottom edge of the model, coming from the left, just where the bottom loose flap can be felt.
This is the starting point of your fold.
If you hold your finger on this point and bring the bottom left corner diagonally upward and inward with your other hand, your finger will guide the fold, preventing you from folding past the loose flap.
Fold your point all the way upward. It will reach beyond the top edge of the model.
Step 13
Now, locate the top loose flap, furthest away from you. On the surface of this flap, you should find a diagonal crease line. It might be quite faint, so feel carefully along the surface of the entire loose flap.
This crease line will be the reference point where the edge of your upward fold should reach.
Result: The entire left corner of the shape will now be folded into a pointy triangle, like an arrow pointing to the left.
Make sure the point on the left is as sharp as possible and completely flat.
If you can feel a fold or ridge forming at this point, you have likely folded too far to the right.
Step 14
Rotate the model so the opposite, folded edge is now nearest you and repeat Steps 12 and 13 on this side.
Result: You will now have a symmetrical figure, consisting of a large triangle on the left and another on the right.
Between these triangles, there will be a kind of diagonal opening, with the two small single-layered, loose flaps from previous steps just visible.
Step 15
Flip the shape over from left to right again.
Step 16
Notice that your folded shape will have two fairly small flaps that seem to be sticking out from underneath the shape now.
Take these flaps (one will be at the bottom left and the other at the top right) and fold them up and down, so they fold over, on top of the large shape.
Crease very well and leave them folded.
Step 17
Finally, take the left point of the shape and fold it over all the way to meet the right point.
If all went well, you should be able to fold your unit exactly in half and the two sides should meet perfectly.
The result will be a tall triangle that looks similar on the outside back and front.
Your unit is done.
Set it aside and prepare 29 more of these units.
Make sure all units are folded exactly as described above.
You can measure your units against each other if preferred, or choose a single unit as a measuring template.
PHASE 2 - EXPLANATION OF UNIT, JOINING METHOD, AND CONSTRUCTION
(A) Parts of Our Unit:
First, place your unit down flat on a table with its points facing away from you. The hinge fold will be nearest you.
Notice that when the unit is closed and lying flat, the hinge fold links two triangles.
The first thing to do is to open our unit by lifting the triangle nearest us so it is upright, at a 90-degree angle to the table.
We will call this triangle the standing part, while the triangle that is still on the table will be called the flat part.
We can ignore the flat part of our unit for now.
We are interested in the standing part, which has a front and back that look different from each other.
On the front side, nearest us, there is a horizontal pocket near the top of the unit. This pocket will not be used.
At the bottom center, there will be a small vertical flap, peeking out from underneath the front panel of the pyramid.
This also won't be used.
At the back, the unit is divided into a left and a right side by a long, vertical slit, which will be used during the assembly.
(B) Opening and Holding Our Unit:
We should know how to open and hold each unit in a certain way before joining it to our structure.
We will first look at the front of the standing part of the unit.
Each standing part has two hinges, linked to a small flap on the right and a larger flap on the left.
If you think of the standing part of the unit as a screen that you are looking at, the small flap will be behind the screen, on the right.
We need to unhook this small right flap by opening the hinge on the right. Think of it as a hand.
Then, we will bring the small flap we have unhooked toward us, circularly, all the way to the left.
We will notice that, on the left, we have another hinge fold, which we should also open, causing the arm of our unit to now be flared out to the left.
We have to keep the unit open like this, with its left arm and hand open all the way to the left, in order to access the pocket at the back of our module.
The unit will want to return to its folded position, so we will have to hold it open as we insert the next unit.
Once we have joined two units, we may let go of the arm that was stretched out. The hinge will close, holding the two units together.
(C) Joining Units:
Investigate the back of the standing part of your unit. It has one slit that you will find towards the center of the unit. This is where the arms and hands of other units will be inserted.
In other words, each central triangular part of the units will form one side of a pyramid. The hinge folds will serve to wrap three units together in a kind of circle.
Each pyramid of three units will then be joined to others.
(D) Rows:
Our star will be constructed from the bottom, working upward in circles, or what we will call rows, to a point where it will be closed. There will be four rows.
Rows 1 and 2 will each use 10 units, while rows 3 and 4 will each use 5 units.
(E) Tip 1:
When doing this construction for the first time, it will help if you can group your units according to the row you are working on. So, when starting on row 1, set aside only 10 units, then 10 more as you move to row 2, etc. This will help you stay oriented while learning how each row is put together.
(F) Tip 2:
When adding units, always hold up your new unit with its standing front part or the screen facing you, letting the flat part trail towards the outside of the structure.
Open only the arm of the standing part of each unit when you need to, keeping the rest of the unit tucked and folded in place.
This will ensure better orientation as the assembly gets larger.
PHASE 3 - BUILDING ROW 1 WITH 10 UNITS
We will be constructing 5 pyramids in this first row.
3.1 Pyramid 1
(A) Make sure unit 1 is held open as described above.
Now, take a second unit and open it in exactly the same way as you did with unit 1.
Place the units next to each other on a flat surface. Unit 1 will be on the left and unit 2 on the right.
Both units should be standing with their arms and hands open to the left.
Join unit 2 from the right.
Locate a fairly large diagonal pocket at the back of unit 1 and hold it open.
Tilt unit 2 slightly to the left so its left arm slides in behind unit 1.
Slide unit 2 all the way into the pocket you are holding open.
Make sure its hand is open and that it reaches all the way into the unit and around the hinge fold.
You will be stopped by the hinge fold of unit 1.
Once inserted, you can let go of unit 2. It will naturally seem to fold closed along the hinge folds.
Result: Units 1 and 2 will now be joined.
(B) We will next be joining unit 3 from the left.
Hold the two units that are already joined together with your right hand, with the flap of unit 1 open to the left for the next step.
Pick up unit 3 with your left hand, find the diagonal pocket at the back of unit 3 and open it all the way to the left, similar to how you held open the first two units.
Bring unit 3 close to unit 1, coming from the left. Tilt unit 3 slightly to the right so the left arm of unit 1 slides in behind unit 3.
Slide unit 1 all the way into the pocket you are holding open.
You will be stopped by the hinge fold of unit 3.
Once inserted, you can let go of unit 3. It will naturally seem to fold closed along the hinge fold on the left.
Result: Units 2 and 3 will now be joined to unit 1.
(C) To complete our pyramid shape, we have to join unit 3 to unit 2 now.
Remember we have unit 1 at the center, unit 2 on the right and unit 3 on the left.
So, slightly hold open the arm of unit 2 on the right while bringing the arm of unit 3 all the way around the front and to the right. You will need to hold the structure together while doing this.
Slide the arm of unit 3 all the way until you can feel that its point disappears into the pocket you are holding open. You will know it is correctly inserted when you feel the hinges of the two units lock into place on the right of the pyramid that you have just formed.
Once the hinges are locked, you can let go of the pocket you are holding open. It will lie flush against the side of the pyramid again.
Result: The 3 units will now be securely locked together. You will be able to pick the structure up without it falling apart.
It is quite tall and hollow with three flat, triangular flaps spread out around it.
3.2 Pyramid 2
(A) If you place the pyramid down, you will notice that there are 3 flat triangles or parts on the table.
These parts will be used for the assembly of more pyramids.
Turn the completed, standing pyramid so that one of the flat triangles is pointing straight towards you. There will be a second flat triangle on the left and another on the right towards the back of the already-formed pyramid.
(B) Next, lift up the triangle nearest you and hold it upright, like a screen.
Now, think of this new triangle you are holding up as if it is unit 1.
You will be adding 2 more units to form another pyramid.
Unit 4 should be added from the right and unit 5 from the left, following exactly the same joining method you used to make pyramid 1.
(C) To complete our pyramid shape, we have to join unit 5 to unit 4 now.
Remember we have a unit, we think of as unit 1, at the center, unit 4 on the right and unit 5 on the left.
So, slightly hold open the arm of unit 4 on the right while bringing the arm of unit 5 all the way around the front and to the right. You will need to hold the structure together while doing this.
Slide the arm of unit 5 all the way until you can feel that its point disappears into the pocket you are holding open. You will know it is correctly inserted when you feel the hinges of the two units lock into place.
The 3 units will now be securely locked together.
Result: The first 2 pyramids will stand back to back and you will now have 4 triangles flat on the table - two at the back (furthest away from you) and two at the front (nearest you).
3.3 Pyramid 3
(A) To construct our third pyramid, we will use the flat triangle on the right, which is closest to us.
(B) Lift up the flat unit from the table and consider this as if it is unit 1.
We will be adding 2 more units to form another pyramid.
Unit 6 should be added from the right and unit 7 from the left, following exactly the same joining method you used to make pyramid 1.
(C) To complete our pyramid shape, we have to join unit 7 to unit 6 now, locking the three units of this pyramid into place.
Result: Pyramid 3 will be completed.
3.4 Pyramid 4
(A) Now, move to the right, finding the next flat part that you have not yet worked on.
(B) Lift up the flat unit from the table and consider this as if it is unit 1.
We will be adding 2 more units to form another pyramid.
Unit 8 should be added from the right and unit 9 from the left, following exactly the same joining method you used to make pyramid 1.
(C) To complete our pyramid shape, we have to join unit 9 to unit 8 now, locking the three units of this pyramid into place.
Result: Pyramid 4 will be completed.
3.5 Pyramid 5
(A) There should be various flat flaps spread out around the pyramids now, but if you investigate these, there will be two flaps that are lying side by side, almost touching.
If necessary, rotate the entire structure on the table so that these two flaps are nearest you.
(B) Join these two units by inserting the flap of the right unit into the pocket at the back of the left unit.
-This may feel a little different, but it is done in the same way you have joined units so far.
Here, you are joining the units first, then adding unit 10.
(C) To add unit 10, hold it open and slide the flap of unit 9, on the left, in behind it.
(D) Lastly, close the fifth pyramid by sliding the flap of unit 10 into the back of unit 1.
Result: We have completed our fifth pyramid and the first row.
Units used: 10
Flaps on table: 5
You will notice that we now have a standing figure which, in itself, can make a cute decoration, with 5 sharp pointy pyramids and flat flaps arranged in a circle around them.
PHASE 4 - BUILDING ROW 2 WITH 10 UNITS
(A) To continue, we will notice that there are five flat triangles on the table. We need to form a new pyramid, using two units each time, on each of these flat parts.
(B) So, as before, choose any one of the 5 flat triangles that is on the table and add 2 units to it. This will be units 11 and 12.
A pyramid will form very close to the one from which it was constructed, meaning that we can think of the two pyramids as standing back to back.
Tip: It may be helpful to slightly lift the assembly from the table as you construct this row. If units have been properly connected, the structure should be quite strong and should not fall apart when gently lifted at this stage.
(C) This pattern should be repeated four more times as we move, always towards the right, constructing this second row of the star.
These will be units 13 to 20.
Result: We have completed five more pyramids and our second row.
Units used: 10
Flaps on table: 10
PHASE 5 - BUILDING ROW 3 WITH 5 UNITS
(A) Explanation
Notice that your star should now have 10 standing pyramids. Moving from its center point, there will be 5 pyramids arranged in a circle, with 5 more pyramids forming an outer circle, the second row.
The pyramids will also seem to be paired back to back, as if each pyramid in the inner circle will stand with its back touching a friend in the outer circle.
If you now consider the flat flaps that are lying all around the pyramids, you should once again find 10 flat triangular units.
Notice that the flaps are also arranged in pairs. If you look at the end points of these flat triangles, you will notice a pair as being two units standing very close together or side by side. If moving to the right, there will then be a gap, and then another pair of units.
(B) So, to create our first pyramid, we should choose any one of the five pairs of units.
(C) Join the two units in the same way you did when you were joining units 1 and 9 in row 1.
(D) Then we will add one new unit, which will be unit 21, to form a pyramid.
(E) Repeat joining pairs and adding 4 more units to form this row.
These will be units 22 to 25.
(F) Curving
At this stage, you will notice that your assembly is starting to curve towards the table. You may be getting anxious about if your model will hold together. The short answer is YES. These units are actually quite strong, so as long as you don't pull hard at any part of the structure, it should hold well together.
You should feel free to pick up and turn the figure as you add units to this row.
You might want to keep the assembly with its open side on the table and just lift the part you are working with or you may prefer to flip the entire structure upside down. Another option is to place the figure on its side, so that you can join the units while holding them upright, in front of you. This has the added benefit, that you can gently take hold of the units on the inside of your model while, with your other hand, adding new units.
(G) Frustration and patience
Modular origami is like most things: it becomes easier with practice. As you work with the units, both in folding and construction, you will develop muscle memory and find yourself manipulating the paper more skillfully. The model itself will also become more familiar at each stage.
With passion, time, and concentration, you will eventually succeed at this type of modular origami.
If your units become floppy or damaged, your structure may not hold. If you have spare units, use them. You might even need to start over. If you are frustrated, take a break. As with most modular origami, once you understand the assembly, you will handle the units less, and they will remain strong enough to complete the star.
Units used: 5
Flaps on table: 5
PHASE 6 - BUILDING ROW 4 WITH 5 UNITS, AND CLOSURE
We are now going to add our last five units and close our star.
(A) Choose any one of the five remaining flaps of the star.
(B) Think of this flap as unit 1 and add units 26 and 27 to it to form a pyramid.
(C) Take the right unit of this first pyramid and join it to the nearest unit on the right.
(D) Once joined, add one unit, 28, to complete a second pyramid.
(E) Take the right unit of this second pyramid and join it to the nearest unit on the right.
(F) Once joined, add one unit, 29, to complete a third pyramid.
(G) Lastly, take the right unit of this third pyramid and join it to the nearest unit on the right.
(H) Once joined, add the last unit, 30, to complete a last pyramid.
(I) Once all units have been added to the star, there will only be three flaps remaining.
(J) Choose one of these and insert it into the pocket nearest it, moving in a counter-clockwise direction.
(K) Repeat the previous step for the last two remaining flaps.
Your star should be completed.
You can now appreciate its beauty, sturdiness and symmetry.
SUMMARY OF 30-Unit Construction
You will need 30 units folded from square paper.
Row 1 - 10 units
Construct pyramid 1 using 3 units.
Turn pyramid 1 so one of its flat flaps is nearest you.
Add 2 more units to pyramid 1 to form pyramid 2.
These two will seem to stand back to back.
Units used: 5
Turn pyramid 2 so its right flap is facing you.
Add 2 units here, to form pyramid 3.
Units used: 7
Move to the next flap on the right.
Add 2 units here, to form pyramid 4.
Units used: 9
Find the two units that are right next to each other. Add one single unit to complete pyramid 5.
Units used: 10
Row 2 - 10 units
Take any flap on the table.
Add 2 units to make a new pyramid.
Units used: 12
Each time moving to the right, repeat the previous step 4 more times.
Units used: 20
Row 3 - 5 units
Choose any two units that are right next to each other and add 1 unit.
Units used: 21
Repeat the previous step 4 more times.
Units used: 25
Row 4 - 5 units
Choose one of the five flaps.
Build a pyramid using two units.
Units used: 27
Join a unit from the right and add another unit.
Units used: 28
Join a unit from the right and add another unit.
Units used: 29
Join another unit from the right and add the last unit.
Units used: 30
Close the remaining three points.
SUMMARY OF 24-Unit Construction
You will need 24 units folded from square paper.
Row 1 - 8 units
Construct pyramid 1 using 3 units.
Turn pyramid 1 so one of its flat flaps is nearest you.
Add 2 more units to pyramid 1 to form pyramid 2.
These two will seem to stand back to back.
Units used: 5
Turn pyramid 2 so its right flap is facing you.
Add 2 units here, to form pyramid 3.
Units used: 7
Then add one single unit to complete pyramid 4.
Units used: 8
Row 2 - 8 units
Take any flap on the table.
Add 2 units to make a new pyramid.
Units used: 10
Each time moving to the right, repeat the previous step 3 more times.
Units used: 16
Row 3 - 4 units
Choose any two units that are right next to each other and add 1 unit.
Units used: 17
Repeat the previous step 3 more times.
Units used: 20
Row 4 - 4 units
Choose one of the four flaps.
Build a pyramid using two units.
Units used: 22
Join a unit from the right and add another unit.
Units used: 23
Join a unit from the right and add another unit.
Units used: 24
Close the remaining three points.
SUMMARY OF 12-Unit Construction
You will need 12 units folded from square paper.
Row 1 - 8 units
Construct pyramid 1 using 3 units.
Turn pyramid 1 so one of its flat flaps is nearest you.
Add 2 more units to pyramid 1 to form pyramid 2.
These two will seem to stand back to back.
Units used: 5
Turn pyramid 2 so its right flap is facing you.
Add 2 units here, to form pyramid 3.
Units used: 7
Then add one single unit to complete pyramid 4.
Units used: 8
Row 2 - 4 units
Take any flap on the table.
Add 2 units to make a new pyramid.
Units used: 10
Join a unit from the right and add another unit.
Join another unit from the right and add the last unit.
Units used: 12
Close the remaining points.
Making origami accessible through text-only tutorials.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Nishi Sakpal and Lindy van der Merwe, January 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com
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