Text-only instructions written by Edward Coombes and Alysha Hiller - copyright 2024 by the authors.
and by accessorigami.com
Adapted from the design by Jo Nakashima:
youtube.com
Paper used: A square of at least 20 cm or larger is recommended for this model.
Folding level: High Intermediate
For more help with this tutorial, please feel free to email accessorigami@gmail.com.
Introduction
You can read more about this specific beetle at the following link:
wikipedia.org/hercules_beetle
Description: This model forms a 3D beetle shape. Imagine the beetle facing away from you. Its 6 legs point downward and out to the sides, and the front legs are bent such that they come up out of the beetle’s shoulders and then extend back down toward the table. The remaining 4 legs extend straight downward without any other bends. The head portion of the beetle consists of 2 horns that form a vertical, pincer-like shape. The top horn angles forward and upward before changing direction to hook downward at its tip, and the bottom horn angles forward and downward before changing direction to hook upward at its tip. The body of the beetle is rounded along its back such that its sides curve downward. The body has a triangular shield layer on the top and a small horizontal ridge along its back to provide definition. The beetle's front shoulders protrude forward past the main shape of the body.
Part 1: Base Folds - The Square Base, Blintz Base and Frog Base
1. Fold a paper into the square base, with the open end facing toward you.
2. Fold the bottom flap up to the top, aligning the bottom left and bottom right edges with the top left and top right edges respectively.
3. Repeat step 2 for all 4 flaps of the square base. It should now be triangular in shape.
4. Open the bottom part of the folded triangle and lay it flat, such that the corners of the paper still meet in the middle forming a blintz base.
5. Flip the paper over so the smooth side is facing up. Valley fold it in half so one edge meets the opposite edge to form a rectangle.
6. Grasp the corners of this rectangle and push them inward, forming another square base. Flatten it. The model now forms a thicker and smaller square base with vertical slits formed by 2 raw edges of paper meeting down the center of each of the base’s faces. Position this square base so the open point faces toward you.
7. Valley fold the upper right edge of the top layer flap of the square inward so it meets the center slit. Crease and unfold.
8. Repeat on the left side by valley folding the upper left edge of the top layer flap to meet the center slit. Crease and unfold.
9. Next, open the right side of the model’s top flap by lifting up the top layer only of the bottom point and sliding a finger underneath it along the right side of the model until the upper right side is opened slightly. Squash fold this side of the flap using the creases you have already made by flattening the crease from the outer edge and bringing it to rest along the vertical center slit. This should form a small triangle to the left of the center slit. Fold this triangle to the right, like turning the page of a book,.
10. Repeat this squash fold on the left side of the top flap of the model. The top layer of the model should now be a kite shape whose bottom point lines up with the bottom model layer but whose top elongated point is narrower than the bottom layer’s.
13. Flip the model over from right to left and repeat steps 1-4 for this side of the model. When all flaps are squash folded the model should be an elongated diamond, with the shorter end open and on the bottom.
14. Turn the top layer of the right side of the model from right to left like turning the page of a book. Flip it over from right to left and repeat on this side. The model should have 4 "points" sticking out from below the upper portion of the model.
15. Fold the bottom right edge of the top layer flap of the model inward to meet the vertical center where the points separate. Repeat with the lower left edge. Crease and unfold both edges.
16. Make a petal fold by lifting up the horizontal edge of paper that stretches between the model’s outer left and right corners and collapsing along the existing creases so the bottom edges come together in the vertical center of the model and a small triangle forms with its point facing upward. Fold this small triangle down so it points toward the bottom of the model. If needed to accomplish this step, you can make a gentle guide crease by folding the top point of the model down to meet the bottom point and unfolding.
17. Repeat steps 7-9 for the other 3 similar faces of the model. The model should now be a vertically and horizontally symmetrical elongated diamond shape. It has 4 “legs” that can move freely sticking out the bottom. If you turn the flaps of the model like turning the pages of a book, you will alternate between faces that are smooth with a vertical slit running vertically down their center consisting of 2 edges of raw paper and faces that are smooth on the top half but have 2 legs and a small central triangle pointing downward on the bottom.
Part 2: More Base Folds - The PSB, PBB and Horn Face
* Note the alternative methods you could try for Steps 2 and 7 below. These are marked with a star character. They denote a different way to accomplish a step, so make sure to read Steps 2 and 7 carefully before proceeding.
1. Position the model so one of the faces with the legs and triangle is on top. Pick up the model and pinch together all layers except the top layer in one hand so they valley fold in half when viewed from the side of the bottom layer. The top layer remains flat, forming a sort of T shape. Make sure the legs are pointing down.
2. You will notice that in the creases where the top layer meets the remainder of the model, two raw edges of paper meet. Gently pulling these edges slightly outward will show that there is a single layer of paper on the underside of each side of the top layer, connected to the layer by mountain folds along its outer edges. The goal of this step is to flip this single layer of paper so it rests on top, rather than underneath, the top layer of the model. In other words, we are aiming to reverse the folds along the outer edges of the top layer from mountain to valley folds, bringing the single layer of paper from the underside of the flaps to the front. I find it helps to do one side at a time and to focus on the outer corner to make sure it flips completely. After this step, your top layer should be the same diamond shape as before. However, your small triangle will be hidden beneath the top layer of paper. There will be a vertical slit running down the center of the model where the 2 raw edges of paper meet.
* Alternatively, you may place the model down so it lies in front of you from left to right, which will allow you to use both hands to perform the above step.
3. Next, still keeping the remaining flaps of the model pinched in one hand, you should find a loose flap at the top of the model. Pull that flap away from the top layer and insert a finger beneath it, traveling down the model, until you reach the inside of the lower point of your small triangle. The goal of this step is to turn this triangle inside out so it points upward. This will also cause the top layer of paper to become mostly unfolded. I find it helps to place one finger from the hand pinching the other layers underneath the top flap about half way between the top point of the model and the bottom point of the small triangle to serve as an anchor. Then place your index finger inside the point from above and your thumb outside the point from below, and push the point upward and inside out. Once this is done, flatten your model on the table again with the legs facing down. Maneuver your top layer along pre-existing creases to form a square on top of the bottom part of your model that appears like the top layer of a square base oriented in a diamond shape with its open end at the bottom of the model. Its top point rests about half way between the top point of the model and the imaginary horizontal line dividing the left and right corners of the bottom layers of the model. Its bottom point aligns with the bottom point of the model. Its left and right corners protrude out and downward from the corners of the rest of the model’s layers. It forms flaps that can move freely around the vertical center of the model, just like a standard square base. We will refer to this portion of the model as the partial square base or PSB.
4. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the remaining 3 similar faces of the model.
5. Petal fold each PSB into a partial bird base (PBB), by using existing creases which bisect the angle formed by the central vertical crease on the PSB and the bottom edges of the PSB. Fold down the top flap of the PPB so its point meets the bottom point of the model.
6. Make guide creases by valley folding the bottom left/right edges of each PBB into the center vertical line, bisecting the angle formed by the center vertical line and the bottom left/right edges of the PBB. Crease well. I find it is helpful for the next step to also reverse these folds to mountain folds and crease those as well. Unfold the PBB back to the PSB.
Description of the PSB guide creases: The bottom of the PSB is now divided into 8 similar triangles. Each triangle has the same angles, and orientation, with the longest sides meeting at the bottom of the PSB.
7. Pleat fold each side of the PSB by making mountain folds to either end of the center line, followed by valley folds at the next crease moving outwards from the center line, and a final mountain fold on the outermost guide crease to tuck the remaining paper of the PSB in. You should end up with a "partial base" similar to the PBB after folding the top flap down, but with a bottom angle that is half the size of the PBB created in step 1.
* Alternatively, you may open the PSB by bringing the bottom point up to meet the top point. Turn the model so it lies in front of you from left to right. This will open the layers of the paper and allow you to use both hands to form the pleats indicated for this step. Once done, you should fold the top point of the model down again and turn the model so the open side of the now pleated base is nearest you once again.
8. Repeat for all 4 PSB faces of the model.
9. Situate the model such that the closed point is pointing away from you, one of the pleated PPB faces is on the top layer, one of the PPB pleated faces is on the bottom layer, and the model has the same number of layers on its left and right sides. If you feel the model at its outer left and right corners, you will notice that it consists of several layers, some of which are narrow and some are wide. There are a total of 4 wider flaps, two on each side, that you can feel sticking out from the rest of the model especially at the corners. Each of these wider flaps consist of 2 layers, and if you open the model between them and turn the top layer over the rest of the model like turning the page of a book, you will reveal a smooth surface. There are 4 of these smooth surfaces which we will call the flat faces. Now situate your model so one of these flat faces is on the top layer.
10. For this flat face, valley fold only the bottom left edge inward until it meets the vertical center line of the model. Crease and leave folded.
11. Turn the right-side layers of the model like turning the pages of a book until the next flat face is revealed. It may also be helpful to adjust the bottom layers so the model remains flat and balanced. On this flat face, fold only the right bottom edge inward to meet the vertical center line of the model. Crease and leave folded.
12. Again turn the right-side layers of the model from right to left until you reveal the next flat face, adjusting the bottom layers as needed. For this flat face, fold both the left and right lower edges inward to meet the vertical center line of the model. Crease and leave folded.
13. Repeat step 8 for the last flat face of the model.
14. You will now notice that your model’s layers are all narrowed to the same width, except for two remaining flaps that are still wide. Situate the model such that one of the pleated PPB faces is on top, and the wide flaps are immediately below it to its left and right. The layers underneath the wide flaps should all be narrow and uniform. There should be another pleated PPB face on the bottom, and the model should be flat with the same number of layers on each side. We will call the top face the horn face. The model should still be diamond shaped. On the horn face, the diamond has sides of equal length formed by the wide layer; on the other sides, the diamond sides are shorter at the top than at the bottom. The model has a closed point at the top. Its bottom point can be divided into 8 distinct legs or flaps. With the horn face up, the wide layer is part of the "legs" to either side.
Part 3: Shaping
1. Rotate the model 180 degrees, so that the opening is now at the top of the model, with the horn side facing up. The closed point will be the backside of the beetle. The loose flaps on the top and bottom layer will form the upper and lower horns. The wider edges on the horn face will form the beetle’s shield, and the 6 separate points at the top will form the legs.
Legs:
2. Fold the loose flaps pointing away from you on the model’s top and bottom faces back so they point toward you, and their tips meet the model’s closed point.
3. Open the top layer leg on the right below its wide layer and inside reverse fold it so it points back toward you at approximately a 30 degree angle from the bottom edges of the model. Repeat with the top layer left leg. The folded edges at the base of the legs should form a roughly horizontal line across the model.
4. Starting at the tip on each leg you just folded, open it beneath the wide layer and mountain fold the wide layer in half, tucking the edge inside the leg to make it the same width as the other legs. As you approach the base of the leg where it attaches to the rest of the model, you will have to pinch the corner a bit so the fold can lie flat. There should still be a wide layer on top of the legs that forms a sharp point outward to the left and right sides at the base of the legs where they attach to the
model.
Description of model: With the model laying flat you should have a triangular shape starting to form as the base of the model, with 4 legs pointing away from you at the top (y axis) of the model. There is one skinny flap on the top layer (z axis) in the horizontal center of the model pointing towards you, this will be the horn of the rhinoceros beetle. Just underneath the horn, there is a triangular "shield layer," which will be the exoskeleton of the beetle. If you run a finger along the legs you’ve just folded starting at the tip of the left leg facing toward you and following the edges of the model toward the right, it will form the shape of a capital letter M.
5. Inside reverse fold the next (middle) layer of legs so that they are perpendicular to the base of the model. There should now be two legs pointing straight away from you, two legs pointing directly out to each side, and two legs pointing toward you at 30 degrees.
6. Inside reverse fold the next (bottom) layer of legs so that they point out to each side and slightly away from you, making an approximately 15 degree angle with the horizontal.
Description of the model: The beetle is starting to take shape now, there are 6 legs, pointing at various degrees away from the base of the model. The base of the model still has sharp edges forming a triangle on the bottom. With two protrusions on the top forming "shoulders" for the exoskeleton of the beetle.
7. Reposition the top and bottom flaps so they now point away from you. This is the top horn and bottom jaw of the beetle.
Shield:
8. Revealed by repositioning the horn, you will notice a distinct thin equilateral triangular flap sitting on top of the thick isosceles triangle that forms the base of the model. Lift this flap up, and mountain fold the point down on the side facing you (doesn't quite matter where, but the point should not reach the shared edge of this flap and the horn flap.)
9. Valley fold the flap again back up, ever so slightly away from the fold on step 4, to make a pleat which gives the back some definition. Lay this pleated flap flat again with its point still facing you.
Top Horn:
10. Lift the top horn flap up so it points straight off your work surface. Fold it in place so it has a hinge fold facing toward you, its outer edges meet in the middle facing away from you, and it forms a triangular shape where its base meets the model, like a rabbit ear fold.
11. Inside reverse fold this top horn flap down toward the center of the model, approximately 1/4 of the way in from the outer tip, at an angle so that it forms a hook. (This is not super precise)
Bottom Horn:
12. Pick up the model and allow the bottom jaw flap to point downward. Fold this flap in place so it has a hinge fold pointing away from you, its outer edges meet in the middle pointing toward you, and it forms a triangular shape where its base meets the model, like a rabbit ear fold.
13. Outside reverse fold the tip of the bottom jaw at an angle upward toward the center of the model, mirroring step 11. The tip of this and the top horn should almost meet.
Going 3D:
14. Fold the set of legs pointing away from you up off the work surface at the base of where the legs meet the model, and then back down toward the work surface about a third of the way out from the base of the model. The legs should now extend down below the bottom layer of the model.
15. Fold the middle set of legs that point out to each side down toward the work surface where they meet the shield layer.
16. Repeat step 14 for the set of legs pointing toward you.
Description of the model: The model still has a sharp triangular base, but is lifting up from the work surface by the legs and the jaw. The top horn protrudes significantly from the model, up from the work surface. The legs fold down lifting the model up, and get progressively shorter as they go from the front (horn side) of the model to the back. the front set of legs protrude upwards before pointing down, such that they form an elongated M shape. The sides of the model have 4 protruding layers of closed "flaps".
17. In each hand, grasp the inner two layers of flaps on each side of the model where they start to change direction from being angle outward to angling straight away from you. Gently pull these flaps outward to each side (think like you're trying to stretch a piece of play dough) As you pull, the other flaps will bulge out from the center of the model. Push the bottom flaps up and into the model to form a dome, giving the back of the beetle a rounded, 3-D shape. Mountain fold the sharp tip at the back of the model up inside the bottom of the dome to help hold it in place. Reshape the legs / jaw / horn as needed as they likely got disrupted throughout the process.
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This text copyright 2024 by the authors and accessorigami.com
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