Text-Only Instructions: Copyright 2024 by Lindy van der Merwe
accessorigami.com
Instructions with pictures can be found at
origami-instructions.com
and on various sites elsewhere on the Internet with some minor variation on folding methods and sequences.
With thankful acknowledgement to Stephan van der Merwe for his help with folding this beautiful cube.
Steps: 29
Folding level: Easy/Beginner to Intermediate
For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com
Description and more information
This is a modular origami model, meaning that it is made up of different, similar folded units, which are fitted together to form the finished model.
The model is a three-dimensional closed six-sided cube or dice.
There is a heart on each face of the cube.
The assembly is quite intuitive and fairly easy, except that the units may tend to shift around until the corners are formed.
One way of assembly is recommended below, but you may, of course, assemble this cube in any way you prefer.
If folded from thick paper or thin cardstock, the model holds well together and will withstand light use.
You can use alternating colors if preferred, make your cube from only one color or go to the other extreme and create a multi-colored cube, as long as the squares you choose are all the same size.
For instance, you could use 3 colors, folding two units with red, yellow and green, so that the colors end up being opposite each other on the outer panels of the cube.
Very small cubes can be used as jewelry components.
These models also look beautiful displayed in a large, flat bowl or see-through jar or vase, or use them as party favors or hanging decorations.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.
Paper to be used: 6 rectangles with a ratio of 1 to 2, easily obtained from squares, cut in half.
Rectangles that are longer or wider will not work for this model, so be sure to first obtain a square and then cut or tear it in half.
Any size will work, but use large paper to practice with at first.
Thicker paper or thin card stock is strongly recommended.
Terms Used:
All folds should be made as valley folds unless a mountain fold is explicitly indicated in the instructions below.
PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS
If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.
You will be folding 6 similar units to form your cube.
It is recommended that you complete this phase and Phase 2, folding all 6 units before attempting Phase 3, which will explain how to fit
the pieces together to form the finished model.
Please note: In steps 1 to 6 we will make precreases to form a grid before unfolding the paper all the way.
The grid will look as follows:
With the paper in portrait orientation, we would like to create 4 long panels with 1 on the left and 4 on the right.
We also want 8 panels across, with panel 1 at the top and panel 8 at the bottom of the paper.
You may fold this grid in any way you prefer and then go to Step 7.
Otherwise, follow the instructions below.
Step 1
Place your rectangle down in portrait orientation or with its short edges top and bottom.
Step 2
Fold the paper in half on both horizontal and vertical axes. Crease well and unfold.
Step 3
Fold both the right and left sides to the center. Crease well and leave folded.
Step 4
Fold the bottom edge upwards to meet the center horizontal crease. Leave folded.
Step 5
Take the edge that is now lieing along the horizontal center and fold it back down again to meet the new bottom edge of the rectangle. Leave folded.
Step 6
Repeat Steps 4 and 5 with the top edge.
Result: Your long rectangle will still be in portrait orientation with the top and bottom edges that have been folded up and down to form small rectangles with many layers.
Step 7
Unfold the paper all the way so it is completely flat; keep it in portrait orientation.
Step 8
Now, fold up the bottom edge along the first horizontal crease line you encounter.
Leave folded.
Step 9
Flip the rectangle over from left to right, keeping it in portrait orientation.
Step 10
Fold up the bottom corners, both layers, so they meet each other along the central vertical crease.
Leave folded.
You are starting to form the bottom of the heart.
Step 11
Now, pick up the model and, using the top of the triangles you have just folded up as a guide, fold the large top part of the paper away from you, using a mountain fold.
Place the model down on the table again.
Result: The two triangles are now at the top of the rectangle with the rest of the paper behind the triangles, closest to your folding surface.
Step 12
Next, fold the entire bottom edge of the rectangle up to meet the bottom point of the two triangles.
You will have to make a new horizontal crease here since the bottom point of the heart will reach very slightly over the center horizontal line you had previously created.
The new fold line, which we will call Line AB, will thus be slightly below the original center line.
Crease and leave folded.
You will have two layers of paper making up the bottom part of the unit now.
Step 13
Using Line AB as your reference, with a mountain fold, fold the bottom part of the paper away from you so it disappears underneath the model.
The rectangular part of the unit will now have three layers.
Step 14
Flip the rectangle over from left to right.
You will notice that the folds you have made have caused the model to now be a rectangle in landscape orientation.
The rectangle is divided by a horizontal line, causing the top part of the rectangle to be smaller than the bottom part.
Step 15
Fold the left and right edges inwards so they meet each other along the central vertical line.
You can use the single-layered sides of the heart as a guide here.
Crease and unfold.
Step 16
Lastly, fold each corner of the rectangle diagonally inwards to meet the first vertical crease line you encounter.
Result: The triangles will form shapes like arrows, on each side of the central square, one pointing left and the other right.
Leave folded.
Step 17
Fold the triangles inwards so they cover the central square. Their points will touch.
Step 18
Flip the model over from left to right for the last time.
Step 19
Form the top of the heart shape using small mountain folds.
First find the single-layered outer, top corners of the square and fold them diagonally away from you and down, using mountain folds.
These are small corners you are creating to make the outer top of the heart.
Then, find the thicker top corners that are lieing together at the top center of the square.
Use mountain folds to also fold these corners inwards and diagonally down.
You can make these corners just a little larger than the outer corners so the inner dip of the heart is slightly more pronounced.
Crease all 4 corners well and press them flat.
Check that your heart shape is cymmetrical and neat.
Make sure that all 4 edges of your square are straight and really creased well at this point. Press extra hard since firm creases will make the assembly of the model much easier.
Your unit is complete.
If preferred, set it aside under a heavy book to press the creases extra flat.
PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS
Repeat steps 1 to 19 5 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.
Take special care to fold all the hearts so they look the same.
For neatness you can use the first unit as a template for folding the rest of the hearts.
Explanation:
First look at one of your folded units.
In the instructions that follow, you will be working with, on the one hand, the central square and, on the other, what we have termed the two flaps, the triangular points on the side of each square as well as the pockets of each central square.
(A) The central square
*1 This is the large, flat area of each unit.
*2 The square will have a surface with only one line on it on one side and have the heart on the other.
*3 Keep in mind that each central square will make up a side of the cube. So, when assembling the model, remember that the central squares should have the heart shapes on the outside of the cube.
(B) The flaps:
*1 The flaps are the triangles that are situated on the left and right sides of the central squares.
*2 All the loose flaps of the units should stand up at a 90 degree angle to the central square, since this is how your cube will be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
(C) The pockets:
*1 Each unit also has two pockets on the top and bottom of the central square.
*2 You will notice that if you hold the unit with the point of the heart nearest you, there is a pocket made up of two thin edges that may be a little difficult to find and open.
*3 On the opposite side of the square, where the rounded part of the heart is, there is only a single edge. Here, the pocket is between this straight edge and the back of the heart.
*4 The pockets might be a little difficult to open, so it may be a good idea to gently open each of them with a fingertip before starting with the assembly of the units.
*5 This will both confirm that you have folded all the units correctly and will help when you do the assembly.
*6 It does not matter how you place the hearts when doing the assembly. Simply check if you have a double edge for a pocket or a single edge.
The flaps go inside the two layers of the double-edged pockets and where you have a single-layered pocket, the flaps will go between the back of the heart and the straight edge of the unit.
PHASE 3: ASSEMBLY
Step 20
It is important to orient each unit exactly as directed. Also, do not turn your model while assembling it as the placement of each unit is described in detail and in order.
20.1 Make sure all 6 units are placed with the hearts facing the table and their flaps pointing up in the air. Once this has been done, while keeping them face down, set one unit aside for the moment and move the remaining 5 units into a cross formation in front of you on a table as follows:
20.2 Place a unit at the center, mentally naming it as unit 1 or the bottom panel of your cube. Bottom here refers to the side of the dice that is facing the table.
Important: The flaps of unit 1 should be at the top and bottom.
20.3 Then place another unit on the left, mentally numbering it unit 2, followed by a third unit on the right of the first unit, mentally numbering it unit 3.
So, you will have three units in a row now, numbered 2 on the left, 1 at the center and 3 on the right.
Important: Make sure that the 2 units on the left and right have their flaps out to the left and right.
20.4 Next, you will place a fourth unit above unit 1 and a fifth below unit 1.
Important: The flaps of these units should also be on the left and right.
Your cross formation will now be complete with the 3 units from left to right and the two you have just added at the top and bottom of unit 1, the central unit.
All will still be with their central squares flat on the table and with the loose flaps arranged as described above.
Step 21
Start with unit 1 The square part of the model will lie flat while the flaps will point towards the ceiling.
Hold it in place or place something heavy down on top of the central square to keep the paper in place.
Step 22
Take unit 2, on the left and tilt it over to the right, sliding its right flap into the pocket on the left of unit 1.
Lift the heavy object only on the left when you do this; then let it down so it can keep the paper in place for you.
Unit 2 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is tucked inside unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
Step 23
Take unit 3, on the right and tilt it over to the left, sliding its left flap into the right pocket of unit 1.
Lift the heavy object only on the right when you do this; then let it down so it can keep the paper in place for you.
Unit 3 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is tucked inside unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
You will now have 3 sides or squares loosely in place, namely the bottom, left and right panels of the cube with the helper securing them at the bottom.
Step 24
Take unit 4 that will form the back panel of the cube. Tilt it toward you and slide its pocket over the top flap of unit 1.
You can, at this point, gently fold the left and right flaps that are hanging in the air over the flaps of unit 4 to keep it more or less in place. It won't be very secure yet, but it should help you along.
Alternatively, you can place something heavy and solid against the back of unit 4 to hold it in place.
Step 25
Insert unit 5 from the side nearest you in the same way, also sliding its pocket over the bottom flap of unit 1.
Step 26
It is now time to gently tuck in the flaps of units 4 and 5 into the side pockets of units 2 and 3 in order to form the sides of the cube.
Step 27
Once all the flaps have been tucked into their adjacent pockets, press the sides of the cube together so the panels will rest snug against each other.
Remove your heavy object.
This is also the time to place something inside the cube if you would like to use it as a container.
If the left and right flaps have been pushed down against the sides of the cube, gently coax them so they will come up to cover the object you put inside. These flaps should sort of hang in the air or form a fake lid at this point, since, in this way, they will help to keep the last unit of the cube in place.
Step 28
Make sure the flaps are lifted up on the left and right of your assembly.
Pick up the last unit and place it on the only side that is still open, the top of the cube. First place the unit so the flaps hang on the outside, over the back and front of the cube.
Once you have it oriented, tuck the flaps of unit 6 inside the pockets on the back and front sides of the cube.
Step 29
Lastly, there will still be two flaps standing up on two sides of the cube.
Tuck these flaps into their corresponding pockets.
Once done, you will find that the Cube is perfectly formed with a pleasing heart motif on each face.
Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.
for non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, June 2024
This text copyright 2024 by accessorigami.com
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