MOD10 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - CARNELIAN CUBE (FROM 6 RECTANGLES)

The image shows the Carnelian Cube, folded from red, blue and yellow rectangles, forming a pleasing cymmetrical pattern on the faces of the cube.

Folder: Michel Lucas, France, 2024

You can see more variations he has folded by searching for author "Van der Merwe" on

bibliogami.fr

Credits and Resources:
Designer/Creator: Lindy van der Merwe/Unknown/Traditional
Text-Only Instructions: Copyright 2023 - Lindy van der Merwe
With thankful acknowledgement to:

- Nishi Sakpal for testing and editing suggestions, and
- Michel Lucas for folding, photographs and editing suggestions.
I am honored and privileged that this model is also featured on Michel's fabulous

Bibliogami Site - available in English or French

The longer sides or "hinged edges" should be horizontal.
Result: Think of your unit as having a central square, with a triangle on the left, sloping towards you, and another on the right, sloping away from you.
There are also two corners, one on the top left and another on the bottom right.
Step 5
Now, fold the left triangle straight over to the right and the right triangle straight over to the left so the bases of the triangles meet each other diagonally across the square.
Result: They will meet perfectly, covering the square completely.

Step 6
Unfold both triangles.
Result: You will now have a vertical valley fold on the left side of the square and another on the right.
Step 7
Flip the model horizontally from left to right again.
Result: You will have two large triangles again, with their loose points facing up and down.
The two vertical folds you made previously will now be mountain folds.
Step 8
Take the loose corner of the left triangle and fold it straight up, using the mountain fold as a guide, to meet the top edge of the model.
Simularly, take the loose corner of the right triangle and fold it straight down, using the mountain fold as a guide, to meet the bottom edge of the model.
Step 9
Now, flip the points of both triangles to the inside, using mountain folds, so their points are no longer visible.
Result: If you consider your entire long shape, two folds have formed on its top surface: On the right, a four-sided shape that resembles a mountain with a flat top, and on the left, this same mountain, but in an upsidedown position.
The two shapes will just touch each other at the center of the model.
Step 10
Turn your entire long shape over from right to left, once again placing it so the long straight edges are horizontal.
Step 11
Once again, take the two opposite corners, but this time, fold them straight and inwards in half.
Their points should just reach the first vertical crease lines you encounter on each side, or the lines where the central square starts.
Put in another way, you are actually folding both triangles in half
Fold straight, so that the left bottom triangle just touches the bottom left corner of the central square;
similarly, fold the top right point over so it just touches the top right corner of the central square.
Crease well on both sides and leave folded.
Result: Small triangles will have formed on opposite sides of the central square.
Step 12
Lastly, keeping the triangles just made as they are, flip the left and right sides of the shape inwards, using the left and right vertical creases that are already there.
The triangles from the previous step will now be hidden.
Result: You have now created two flaps for your unit, which will be inserted into the pockets on the front of other units.
PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS
Repeat steps 1 to 12 5 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.
Explanation:
First look at your folded unit.
* It has a central square with two rectangular flaps, one on the left and one on the right.
* The square itself has a smooth surface on one side, but two pockets have been created on the other side.
These pockets are where you will be inserting the flaps of the units of the cube.
* For assembly, all units should be held with the smooth side of the central square facing the ceiling.
* All the loose flaps of the units should stand up at a 90 degree angle to the central square, since this is how your cube will be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
* Keep in mind that each central square will make up a side of the cube. So, when assembling the model, remember that the central squares should have their smooth sides on the inside of the cube and the pockets on the outside.
* The triangular hook will be inserted into each pocket on the outside of your cube to form it into a 3D shape.
* Don't be afraid to use a fingernail to open the pockets. You should be able to figure out where the pockets are and how to slide the flaps of the new units into them once you start assembling the model.
Phase 3: Assembling your model
Step 13
It is important to orient each unit exactly as directed. Also, do not turn your model while assembling it as the placement of each unit is described in detail and in order.
13.1 Make sure all 6 units are placed with their smooth, central squares facing the ceiling and their flaps pointing up in the air. Once this has been done, while keeping them face down, set one unit aside for the moment and move the remaining 5 units into a cross formation in front of you on a table as follows:
13.2 Place a unit at the center, mentally naming it as unit 1 or the bottom panel of your cube. Bottom here refers to the side of the dice that is facing the table.
Important: The flaps of unit 1 should be at the top and bottom.
13.3 Then place another unit on the left, mentally numbering it unit 2, followed by a third unit on the right of the first unit, mentally numbering it unit 3.
So, you will have three units in a row now, numbered 2 on the left, 1 at the center and 3 on the right.
Important: Make sure that the 2 units on the left and right have their flaps out to the left and right.
13.4 Next, you will place a fourth unit above unit 1 and a fifth below unit 1.
Important: The flaps of these units should also be on the left and right.
Your cross formation will now be complete with the 3 units from left to right and the two you have just added at the top and bottom of unit 1, the central unit.
All will still be with their central squares flat on the table and with the loose flaps arranged as described above.
Step 14
Explanation
The assembly for this cube is a little different from e.g. the assembly for the Sonobe units.
Basically, the sequence will be to hold unit 1 upright in front of you like a book, then add units 2 and 3 to the sides, followed by units 4 and 5 from the top and bottom.
Lastly, unit 6 will form the top or lid of the cube.
Unlike you might be used to, we are going to add each unit by hooking it over the pocket of another and then, to help us keep all together, we are going to close each square so it lies on top of the one below it.
Once all 5 squares are attached, we will build the sides of the model.
If your modules start to lose their shape or seem to sag, try to fold new ones from thicker, more rigid paper.
Step 15
Start with unit 1, holding it up in front of you, like a book. The flaps will be at the top and bottom.
Step 16
16.1 Take unit 2, on the left and, bringing it slightly behind unit 1, insert the triangular hook into the pocket of unit 1.
This pocket will be on the left of unit 1 and facing away from you at this point.
16.2 Making sure its left flap is closed, fold unit 2 to the right, as if you are closing a book, so it will now cover unit 1 entirely.
16.3 Make sure the top and bottom flaps of unit 1 has not been trapped by unit 2. We will need them later.
Step 17
17.1 Take unit 3, on the right and, bringing it slightly behind unit 1, insert the triangular hook into the pocket of unit 1.
This pocket will be on the right of unit 1 and facing away from you at this point.
17.2 Making sure its right flap is closed, fold unit 3 to the left, as if you are closing a book, so it will now cover unit 2 entirely.
17.3 Make sure the top and bottom flaps of unit 1 has not been trapped by unit 3. We will need them soon.
Your square stack is starting to get higher now.
Step 18
Place your stack flat on the table now with the flaps of unit 1 still at the top and bottom.
Make sure these flaps are now completely open and pressed flat.
Step 19
To insert unit 4, bring it from a point furthest away from you and place it on top of the top flap of unit 1.
Hold unit 4 upright and find the hook of unit 1 just behind it.
It will be on the bottom left.
Insert the hook and then fold unit 4 flat towards you, so it is on top of your square stack.
Make sure the left and right flaps of this unit is folded in before folding it over.
Step 20
Turn the entire assembly 180 degrees and repeat the previous step with unit 5.
Result: You will have a thick multi-layered square stack made up of all 5 units.
Press the squares gently so the stack is neat and tidy.
Step 21
Don't be alarmed, but you are now going to unfold 4 of the units again.
Do this very carefully. You want them to stay in place so you can form the sides of the cube now.
Step 22
Explanation
Your units are attached, but will only be secured in the next steps.
On each corner of the model, you will find a flap. Take the flap and make sure it wraps around the outside of the corner of the cube.
The hook that you will find at the end of each flap will need to slide into the pocket that you will find on each corner.
So, to form the sides, start on the left corner nearest you. Once the hook has been inserted, turn the entire model so the next corner is on your left.
Repeat the hooking step until all 4 corners are secured.
This is also the time to place something inside the cube if you would like to use it as a container.
Make sure the flaps are lifted up on the left and right of your assembly.
Step 23
Pick up the last unit and place it on the only side that is still open, the top of the cube. First place the unit so the flaps hang on the outside, over the back and front of the cube.
Once you have it oriented, tuck the hooks inside the pockets on the back and front sides of the cube.
Step 24
Lastly, there will still be two flaps standing up on two sides of the cube.
Tuck the hooks of these flaps into their corresponding pockets.
Once done, you will find that the Cube is perfectly formed with a pleasing pattern on the outside and a s tructure that keeps it together and fairly sturdy.
Making origami accessible to blind and visually impaired people through text instructions.
for non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, February 2024
This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024

Credits and Resources:
Designer/Creator: Lindy van der Merwe/Unknown/Traditional
Text-Only Instructions: Copyright 2023 - Lindy van der Merwe
With thankful acknowledgement to:- Nishi Sakpal for testing and editing suggestions, and
- Michel Lucas for folding, photographs and editing suggestions.
I am honored and privileged that this model is also featured on Michel's fabulous

Bibliogami Site - in English or French

Steps: 24
Folding level: Easy/Beginner to Intermediate
For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com

Description and more information
Carnelian: A semi-precious stone, pale to deep red or reddish-brown variety of clear chalcedony.
This is a modular origami model, meaning that it is made up of different, similar folded units, which are fitted together to form the finished model.
The model is a three-dimensional closed six-sided cube or dice.
This cube has two slightly curved shapes on opposite corners of each of its faces.
The curved shapes seem to be pasted or plastered on the outside of the cube.
The assembly is quite intuitive and fairly easy, except that the units may tend to shift around until the corners are formed.
One way of assembly is recommended below, but you may, of course, assemble this cube in any way you prefer.
If folded from thick paper or thin cardstock, the model holds well together and will withstand light use.
You can use alternating colors if preferred, make your cube from only one color or go to the other extreme and create a multi-colored cube, as long as the squares you choose are all the same size.
For instance, you could use 3 colors, folding two units with red, yellow and green, so that the colors end up being opposite each other on the outer panels of the cube.
The pockets on the outside of the cube also make it possible to insert extra colors in the form of strips, flowers or other shapes.
Very small cubes can be used as jewelry components.
These models also look beautiful displayed in a large, flat bowl or see-through jar or vase, or use them as party favors or hanging decorations.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.

Paper to be used: 6 rectangles of ratio 1 to 2.
They are easily obtained from squares, cut in half.
Any size works, but use large paper to practice with at first.
Thicker paper or thin card stock is strongly recommended.
Thin paper may not be rigid enough to hold up the sides of the model.

Terms Used:
All folds should be made as valley folds unless a mountain fold is explicitly indicated in the instructions below.

PHASE 1: CREATING A UNIT
You will be folding 6 similar units to form your cube.
It is recommended that you complete this phase and Phase 2, folding all 6 units before attempting Phase 3, which will explain how to fit
the pieces together to form the finished model.
Step 1
Place your rectangle down in landscape orientation or with its short edges left and right.
Step 2
Fold the top left corner diagonally down so the left edge meets the bottom edge of the rectangle.
Crease and leave folded.
Step 3
Fold the bottom right corner diagonally up so the right edge meets the top edge of the rectangle.
Crease and leave folded.
Result" You will have a four-sided diamond-shaped figure or a parallelogram.
The back of the figure will be smooth and the front will be divided into two triangles that meet each other along the vertical center of the shape.
Step 4
Flip the model over from right to left.
The longer sides or "hinged edges" should be horizontal.
Result: Think of your unit as having a central square, with a triangle on the left, sloping towards you, and another on the right, sloping away from you.
There are also two corners, one on the top left and another on the bottom right.
Step 5
Now, fold the left corner straight over to the right and the right corner straight over to the left so the bases of the triangles meet each other diagonally across the square.
The folded triangles will thus meet each other perfectly and cover the central square.
Step 6
Unfold both triangles.
Result: You will now have a vertical valley fold on the left side of the square and another on the right.
Step 7
Flip the model horizontally from right to left again.
Result: You will have two large triangles again, with their loose points facing up and down.
The two vertical folds you made previously will now be mountain folds.
Step 8
Take the loose corner of the left triangle and fold it straight up, using the mountain fold as a guide, to meet the top edge of the model.
Simularly, take the loose corner of the right triangle and fold it straight down, using the mountain fold as a guide, to meet the bottom edge of the model.
Step 9
Now, flip the points of both triangles to the inside, using mountain folds, so their points are no longer visible.
Result: If you consider your entire long shape, two folds have formed on its top surface: On the right, a four-sided shape that resembles a mountain with a flat top, and on the left, this same mountain, but in an upsidedown position.
The two shapes will just touch each other at the center of the model.
Step 10
Turn your entire long shape over from right to left, once again placing it so the long straight edges are horizontal.
Step 11
Once again, take the two opposite corners, but this time, fold them straight and inwards in half.
Their points should just reach the first vertical crease lines you encounter on each side, or the lines where the central square starts.
Put in another way, you are actually folding both triangles in half
Fold straight, so that the left bottom triangle just touches the bottom left corner of the central square;
similarly, fold the top right point over so it just touches the top right corner of the central square.
Crease well on both sides and leave folded.
Result: Small triangles will have formed on opposite sides of the central square.
Step 12
Lastly, keeping the triangles just made as they are, flip the left and right sides of the shape inwards, using the left and right folds that are already there.
The triangles from the previous step will now be hidden.
Result: You have now created two flaps for your unit, which will be inserted into the pockets on the front of other units.

PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS
Repeat steps 1 to 12 5 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.
Explanation:
First look at your folded unit.
* It has a central square with two rectangular flaps, one on the left and one on the right.
* The square itself has a smooth surface on one side, but two pockets have been created on the other side.
These pockets are where you will be inserting the flaps of the units of the cube.
* For assembly, all units should be held with the smooth side of the central square facing the ceiling.
* All the loose flaps of the units should stand up at a 90 degree angle to the central square, since this is how your cube will be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
* Keep in mind that each central square will make up a side of the cube. So, when assembling the model, remember that the central squares should have their smooth sides on the inside of the cube and the pockets on the outside.
* The triangular hook will be inserted into each pocket on the outside of your cube to form it into a 3D shape.
* Don't be afraid to use a fingernail to open the pockets. You should be able to figure out where the pockets are and how to slide the flaps of the new units into them once you start assembling the model.

Phase 3: Assembling your model
Step 13
It is important to orient each unit exactly as directed. Also, do not turn your model while assembling it as the placement of each unit is described in detail and in order.
13.1 Make sure all 6 units are placed with their smooth, central squares facing the ceiling and their flaps pointing up in the air. Once this has been done, while keeping them face down, set one unit aside for the moment and move the remaining 5 units into a cross formation in front of you on a table as follows:
13.2 Place a unit at the center, mentally naming it as unit 1 or the bottom panel of your cube. Bottom here refers to the side of the dice that is facing the table.
Important: The flaps of unit 1 should be at the top and bottom.
13.3 Then place another unit on the left, mentally numbering it unit 2, followed by a third unit on the right of the first unit, mentally numbering it unit 3.
So, you will have three units in a row now, numbered 2 on the left, 1 at the center and 3 on the right.
Important: Make sure that the 2 units on the left and right have their flaps out to the left and right.
13.4 Next, you will place a fourth unit above unit 1 and a fifth below unit 1.
Important: The flaps of these units should also be on the left and right.
Your cross formation will now be complete with the 3 units from left to right and the two you have just added at the top and bottom of unit 1, the central unit.
All will still be with their central squares flat on the table and with the loose flaps arranged as described above.
Step 14
Explanation
The assembly for this cube is a little different from e.g. the assembly for the Sonobe units.
Basically, the sequence will be to hold unit 1 upright in front of you like a book, then add units 2 and 3 to the sides, followed by units 4 and 5 from the top and bottom.
Lastly, unit 6 will form the top or lid of the cube.
Unlike you might be used to, we are going to add each unit by hooking it over the pocket of another and then, to help us keep all together, we are going to close each square so it lies on top of the one below it.
Once all 5 squares are attached, we will build the sides of the model.
If your modules start to lose their shape or seem to sag, try to fold new ones from thicker, more rigid paper.
Step 15
Start with unit 1, holding it up in front of you, like a book. The flaps will be at the top and bottom.
Step 16
16.1 Take unit 2, on the left and, bringing it slightly behind unit 1, insert the triangular hook into the pocket of unit 1.
This pocket will be on the left of unit 1 and facing away from you at this point.
16.2 Making sure its left flap is closed, fold unit 2 to the right, as if you are closing a book, so it will now cover unit 1 entirely.
16.3 Make sure the top and bottom flaps of unit 1 has not been trapped by unit 2. We will need them later.
Step 17
17.1 Take unit 3, on the right and, bringing it slightly behind unit 1, insert the triangular hook into the pocket of unit 1.
This pocket will be on the right of unit 1 and facing away from you at this point.
17.2 Making sure its right flap is closed, fold unit 3 to the left, as if you are closing a book, so it will now cover unit 2 entirely.
17.3 Make sure the top and bottom flaps of unit 1 has not been trapped by unit 3. We will need them soon.
Your square stack is starting to get higher now.
Step 18
Place your stack flat on the table now with the flaps of unit 1 still at the top and bottom.
Make sure these flaps are now completely open and pressed flat.
Step 19
To insert unit 4, bring it from a point furthest away from you and place it on top of the top flap of unit 1.
Hold unit 4 upright and find the hook of unit 1 just behind it.
It will be on the bottom left.
Insert the hook and then fold unit 4 flat towards you, so it is on top of your square stack.
Make sure the left and right flaps of this unit is folded in before folding it over.
Step 20
Turn the entire assembly 180 degrees and repeat the previous step with unit 5.
Result: You will have a thick multi-layered square stack made up of all 5 units.
Press the squares gently so the stack is neat and tidy.
Step 21
Don't be alarmed, but you are now going to unfold 4 of the units again.
Do this very carefully. You want them to stay in place so you can form the sides of the cube now.
Step 22
Explanation
Your units are attached, but will only be secured in the next steps.
On each corner of the model, you will find a flap. Take the flap and make sure it wraps around the outside of the corner of the cube.
The hook that you will find at the end of each flap will need to slide into the pocket that you will find on each corner.
So, to form the sides, start on the left corner nearest you. Once the hook has been inserted, turn the entire model so the next corner is on your left.
Repeat the hooking step until all 4 corners are secured.
This is also the time to place something inside the cube if you would like to use it as a container.
Make sure the flaps are lifted up on the left and right of your assembly.
Step 23
Pick up the last unit and place it on the only side that is still open, the top of the cube. First place the unit so the flaps hang on the outside, over the back and front of the cube.
Once you have it oriented, tuck the hooks inside the pockets on the back and front sides of the cube.
Step 24
Lastly, there will still be two flaps standing up on two sides of the cube.
Tuck the hooks of these flaps into their corresponding pockets.
Once done, you will find that the Cube is perfectly formed with a pleasing pattern on the outside and a structure that keeps it together and fairly sturdy.
Making origami accessible to blind and visually impaired people through text instructions.
for non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, February 2024
This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024

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MOD10 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - CARNELIAN CUBE (FROM 6 RECTANGLES)

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